Raven wont move when pedal mashed.

[louis]

Mowed part of the yard, started back to the barn, stopped to prune something, then Raven would not move when I pressed the pedal.   Turned off the switch, centered the forward reverse control...turned key, relay clicks, but still won't move.   Started engine, still won't move.   Pushed to barn. Lifted engine cover, lots of grass debris in engine area...blew it out with leaf blower....also pretty hot here (low 90's)....ran fine till then... 

Ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[louis]

update: the gas motor runs, the mower blades run...but Raven won't move...

[crawford]

Your have two DC contractors behind right wheel they have plastice covers on them try taping on them mine were stuck. At end I order new ones I believe they have a metal shield covering them also.

[louis]

Yes, Crawford....I cleaned all the incoming and outgoing wire connections to the contactors, coated them with electrical cleaner lube, banged on the plastic covers, but no joy....all batteries seem ok...motor starts, blades engage and turn, so its got to be in that contactor stuff...will order new contactors and block fuses...who knows? Its only money, right?

[louis]

Ordered new contactors from Stoller....Yikes!!!

[larrys]

Did you check the 100a fuse? Always check voltage at the 100a fuses before ordering contactors. The contactors are daisy chained together so doubt you have both bad at the same time. If you have voltage at fuses, contactors are good. You then will look at either the DMC (very rare part now) or the PCB. Most likely DMC and not PCB. I'm trying to find a source for contactors so Stoller does not gouge everyone.

[louis]

Thanks, I ordered fuses with the contactors....the whole assembly is pretty difficult for me to access for testing so I just threw money at it, when I get it narrowed down I will have either good used parts for sale, new parts for sale cheap, and, hopefully, the problem solved.

[louis]

Part of our thinking about this is that the contactor/fuse assembly was covered with debris...grass clippings, etc...we blow off the machine periodically, but because of the shielding, the contactor assembly does not get cleaned. Thinking is that the heat here (90s), plus the debris either caused a fuse to pop, or a contactor to die. In either case, the best long term solution seems to us to be replace the contactors and fuses, my experience with electronics tells me that heat and debris cause problems eventually, so...if replacing the whole assembly is short-term overkill there will be advantages in the long run. The other option is to junk the Raven, but Id obviously rather not do that.

[crawford]

I open my contractors the contacts were burnt to a crisp.

[louis]

Yeah, that's no surprise really....considering they get opened and closed every time you mash the pedal, and considering the fact they are in an area that gets a whole lot of heat from the engine. Surprising there is no heat shield around this assembly.

[louis]

Crawford...you remember number of hours on yours when you replaced the contactors?

Thanks

[louis]

Contactors, fuses replaced....starts, engine runs, blades engage. when I stand up off the seat, everything shuts down as it is supposed to. Still no movement when the pedal is mashed...DMC???

[crawford]

Did you check you hi and low rand switch see it it didn't move out of place ?

[larrys]

Make sure it is in gear, not in between. Make sure all your connections are good. Make sure 48v battery pack plug is fully connected. You can go up under the seat and see the red and black terminal connections. If you have voltage there, either DMC or potentially a PCB. DMC is going to be hard to find most likely. PCBs are on ebay or contact me by email.

In the future, always check voltage at the 100a fuses. If you have that, the contactors are working.

[louis]

Replaced 48v battery...(dated 2015) with new. Engine starts and runs as before, mower motors run when turned on, stand up with all running, safety switch shuts everything down. Checked the transmission lever, it is in low mode, engaged, re-engaged in low. All generator switches are off.
Is the PCB you mention inside the DMC? How about the throttle switch, ever seen one go bad? New Ariens Zero turn will be here Thursday, but I really hate to give up on the danged Raven, you know?